Managing debt
Debt consolidation: when it helps, and when it costs you more
Debt consolidation means combining several debts into one, so you make a single repayment instead of several. It is usually done to cut the interest rate being charged and to make a stretched budget manageable. Done well, it could do both.

Written by Gavin Harrigan, Managing Director
Broking since 2005, four-time Top 100 broker and a PLAN Australia Hall of Fame member.
Published

Key takeaways
The things worth rememberingConsolidating lowers the monthly repayment far more reliably than it lowers what you pay in total
A short debt stretched across a long mortgage could cost more interest even at a lower rate
Rolling card and personal debt into a mortgage secures debt that was unsecured against your home
Keeping the old repayment after consolidating is what turns a lower rate into an actual saving
Consolidation re-arranges a debt and changes nothing about the pattern that created it
If the repayments are already unaffordable, free financial counselling comes before any refinance
Done badly it does something else. Moving a debt with a few years left onto a mortgage with decades left lowers the monthly repayment and could raise the total interest considerably, and it turns debt that was unsecured into debt secured against your home.
This guide covers the routes people use, what each one changes, and the situations where consolidating is the wrong tool entirely. It is general information rather than advice about your circumstances, and any lending outcome is subject to lender approval.
The short answer
You take out one new loan, use it to pay out the others, and make one repayment from then on. The debts do not disappear. They are re-arranged into a single balance, commonly at a lower rate and commonly over a longer term.
The lower rate is the part you get sold. The longer term is the part that decides whether you are actually better off, because interest is charged on what you owe for as long as you owe it.
The ways people consolidate debt
There is no single product called debt consolidation. There are several routes, they cost very different things, and not all of them are open to every borrower.
| The route | What it involves | What to watch |
|---|---|---|
| Balance transfer to a card | Moving card balances onto a new card offering a promotional rate for a set period | What rate applies once the promotional period ends, whether the transfer attracts a fee, and whether the balance could realistically be cleared inside the period |
| Personal loan | One unsecured loan taken out to pay out cards and other small balances | The rate commonly sits above a mortgage rate and below a card rate, and the term is short enough that the repayment could be higher than you expect |
| Refinancing the mortgage | Replacing your home loan with a larger one that pays the other debts out at settlement | The debt becomes secured on your home, and it could run for whatever is left of the mortgage term |
| Increasing an existing loan | Adding to the loan you already have, or adding a split, rather than moving lender | Same security consequence as a refinance, and the lender will want to know what the funds are for |
| A formal debt agreement or insolvency | A legal arrangement with your creditors under Commonwealth insolvency law | Long-lasting consequences for your credit file and your ability to borrow, and free advice should come before any paid service |
The first two do not touch your home. The next two do, and that is the difference that matters most and gets mentioned least.
Be wary of companies that charge a fee to negotiate with your creditors or to arrange a formal agreement for you. Financial counsellors do much of the same work for nothing, and they are not selling you a product.
What it costs over the whole term
Interest is a function of two things: the rate, and the time. A consolidation almost always improves the first and almost always worsens the second.
That is how a lower rate could still leave you paying more. A balance with a few years to run, moved onto a loan with decades to run, keeps charging interest long after the original debt would have been gone.
- Ask for the total interest over the full term, not only the new monthly repayment
- Compare it against what you would pay by leaving the debts where they are and clearing them in order
- Check the term the consolidated portion would sit on, which is not necessarily the term of the mortgage
- Include the cost of the refinance itself, which applies whether or not the consolidation turns out to help
- Ask what the total becomes if you keep paying the old combined repayment rather than the new lower one
Run your own version before anybody runs one for you. The tools at /finance-calculators/ let you put a rate and a term against a balance and watch what the term does to the total, using your figures rather than an example built to make a point.
Turning unsecured debt into debt secured on your home
A credit card, a personal loan and a buy now pay later account are unsecured. Falling behind on them is serious and the consequences are real, and they do not include losing the house.
Roll those balances into a mortgage and that changes. The balance is now part of a loan your property stands behind, and it is governed by a mortgage contract rather than by the credit contract it came from.
- Debts that nobody could take your home over become part of a loan secured by it
- A missed repayment now sits against the mortgage rather than against a card
- Hardship arrangements exist on both kinds of credit and they are not identical, so ask what would apply before you consolidate
- The larger loan is reassessed against the property's value, and lenders mortgage insurance could re-enter the picture
- Selling later returns less to you, because more of the price goes to paying the loan out
What consolidating does not fix
Consolidation is a re-arrangement. It changes the shape of a debt and it changes nothing about how the debt came to exist.
That matters because the most common way a consolidation goes wrong is not the arithmetic. It is the cards being paid out, left open, and used again, so the household ends up carrying the consolidated mortgage and a fresh set of balances on top of it.
- Close the accounts at settlement rather than leaving them open at a zero balance
- Work out what the money was actually spent on before deciding a loan is the answer
- Test a budget against a real month you have already lived, not an optimistic one
- Put a small buffer aside first, so the next unexpected bill does not go straight back onto a card
- Agree with everyone in the household what happens if the balances start climbing again
- Set a date to review the position, rather than treating settlement as the end of it
None of that is finance advice and all of it decides the outcome. A consolidation done alongside a change in how the money is managed could work well. A consolidation done instead of one usually buys time and adds cost.
Where to get help, and where to go next
If the repayments are already unaffordable, if you are behind, or if you are borrowing to make minimum payments, a refinance is not the first call. Free financial counselling is, and it comes before anybody sells you a product.
We would give you the same answer. A broker whose response to unaffordable debt is always another loan is not giving you an answer, and there are files where the honest reply is that consolidating would make things worse.
If the position is stable and the question is simply whether consolidating stacks up, the pages below are where to look next.
| Page | What it covers |
|---|---|
| /refinancing-perth/debt-consolidation-refinancing/ | How a consolidation through a mortgage is assessed, and which debts lenders are prepared to pay out |
| /refinancing-perth/ | Refinancing generally, and how a loan review is run here |
| /guides/refinancing-guide/ | Whether switching lenders is worth doing at all, before anything is added to it |
| /finance-calculators/refinance-calculator/ | Set a new rate against your current loan and count the switching costs against it |
| /finance-calculators/home-loan-repayment-calculator/ | What a balance repays at over a term you choose, which is how the term shows its cost |
| /finance-calculators/extra-repayments-calculator/ | What keeping the old repayment after consolidating could do to the balance |
About the author

Gavin Harrigan
Managing Director
Gavin has been broking since 2005 and has made the Top 100 brokers list four times. He is a PLAN Australia Hall of Fame member, which is awarded for sustained excellence rather than a single good year.
Qualifications
- Bachelor of Commerce, Applied Finance and Commercial Law — Curtin University
- Diploma of Finance and Mortgage Broking Management — AAMC Training Group
- PLAN Australia Hall of Fame member
- Elite Broker status
- Top 100 Brokers, four times
Accredited across the 40+ lenders on the MoneyQuest panel and working under Australian Credit Licence 389083.
Read Gavin’s full profileQuestions people ask about this
What is debt consolidation and how does it work?
Debt consolidation combines several debts into one loan, so you make a single repayment instead of several. The new loan pays the old balances out, commonly at a lower rate and over a longer term. The debts are not written off, they are re-arranged, and the term you re-arrange them onto decides what the exercise costs you.
Does consolidating debt reduce the total interest you pay?
Not automatically, and often the opposite. The monthly repayment usually falls because the balance is spread over more time, while the total interest could rise for exactly the same reason. Ask for the total over the full term alongside the new repayment, and compare it against clearing the debts where they sit.
What are the risks of consolidating debt into a mortgage?
The two that matter are the term and the security. A debt with a few years left could end up running for whatever remains of the mortgage, and debt that was unsecured becomes debt your home stands behind. Both are manageable with the right structure, and both are worth understanding before you apply rather than after.
Can I consolidate debt without putting my home behind it?
Yes. A balance transfer or an unsecured personal loan consolidates debt without involving the property at all. Both commonly cost more in rate than a mortgage and run over a much shorter term, which means a higher repayment and, frequently, less interest paid in total — and whether either is open to you depends on the lender's assessment of your circumstances.
Will consolidating stop me getting into debt again?
On its own, no. Consolidation changes the shape of what you owe and does nothing about the spending that created it, which is why lenders commonly require the accounts to be closed at settlement rather than left open at zero. The consolidations that work are the ones done alongside a budget that has been tested against a real month.
What should I do if I cannot afford my repayments at all?
Speak to a financial counsellor before you speak to a lender. Financial counselling is free, independent and confidential, and the National Debt Helpline on 1800 007 007 is the usual way to reach one. Your lenders also have hardship processes they are obliged to consider, and asking about one does not commit you to anything.
Related guides
Other guides worth your timeThese overlap more than they look like they do. Most people end up reading at least two.
The information on this page is general in nature and does not take into account your objectives, financial situation or needs. Any figures shown are estimates only. Lending is subject to approval, and to the lender's terms, conditions, fees and charges. Consider whether the information is appropriate for you before acting on it.
Quantum Finance Australia Pty Ltd ABN 63 115 967 818 as trustee for the Gavin Harrigan Family Trust trading as Quantum Finance Australia is authorised under Australian Credit Licence Number 389083.
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